The island of Ferdinandea remains a mystery to this day—an intriguing tale that has drawn many to the heart of the Mediterranean to discover its secrets.
Known today as Banco Graham, the island is a vast rocky platform, situated approximately 6 meters below the sea surface between Sciacca and the island of Pantelleria. It constitutes one of the secondary cones of the submerged volcano Empedocle, which, during its eruption in 1831, witnessed the island expanding to 4 km² and reaching a height of 65 meters. However, it was composed of eruptive material called tephra or tephrite, easily eroded by the action of waves.
The Story of the Vanished Island: Giulia, Nerita, Corrao, Hotham, Graham, Sciacca, and Ferdinandea are just a few names given to an island that no longer exists today. The island Ferdinandea was born in the midst of the Mediterranean, a few miles off the southwestern coast of Sicily; now, it has become an underwater paradise, rich in colors and marine life, and, though young, laden with history.
Like the Marsili Volcano, the Empedocle volcano is historically significant, and, thanks to its unique geological features, it has been monitored by the National Institute of Geophysics and Volcanology since 2006, using pressure sensors to monitor seismic activity.
Curiosities about Ferdinandea: Mistaken for a Libyan submarine in 1986, the Ferdinandea volcano was bombed by the Air Force during the war with Libya.
The History of the Empedocle Volcano: Hidden from sailors, not too well by the clear waters of the Sicilian Channel, Ferdinandea is an island that once emerged but now rests with its pinnacle just a few meters below the surface. Ferdinandea is the mouth of a submerged volcano that, in 1831, after significant geotectonic movements, erupted and spewed lava to reach the sea surface, forming an island that gradually grew to about 4 km² and a height of 65 meters. The island appeared conical to sailors of the time, a shape attributed to vigorous volcanic activity. Two sulfurous ponds that bubble represent the island’s only water sources.
Citizens of Sciacca Saw Ash and Lava on the Horizon: The citizens of Sciacca, from a height on the mainland called Monte San Calogero, reported seeing columns of smoke rising towards the horizon. Sardine fishermen from the seafaring town of Sciacca and neighboring areas reported observing a massive death of fish in the days following the earthquake, precisely in the stretch of sea where the waters were “boiling.” Captain Trafiletti of the ship “Gustavo” reported on July 7, 1831, sighting a new rocky formation on the surface that was spewing ash and lava. After another strong quake on the night of July 10-11, the volcano ceased to erupt, giving the islet its maximum circumference. Many scholars of the time arrived at the site, with Karl Hoffman, a geology professor at the University of Berlin, being the first to reach the island. Simultaneously, the Bourbon Government sent physicist Domenico Scinà to the island, who compiled a document to inform the Emperor of the incident. However, it was Professor Carlo Gemmellaro, a natural history professor at the University of Catania, who aroused the interest of many scientists with a detailed report on the island’s formation.
Ferdinandea and the Claims: Together with Banco Nerita and Banco Terribile, Ferdinandea or Graham’s Bank is one of the accessory cones of a large submarine volcano, somewhat similar to Mount Etna, named the Empedocle Volcano. The island, located along the navigation route between Sciacca and the island of Pantelleria, is now hidden beneath the discreet waters of the Mediterranean, preserving its treasures. The origins of Ferdinandea date back to the end of June 1831 when that stretch of sea was shaken by intense earthquakes.
The French Claims: The French, at this point, also claimed Ferdinandea, renaming it IULIA because it formed in July. They placed a plaque on the island with the inscription “Messrs. Prèvost, and Joinville, September 27, 28, and 29, 1831.” They also placed the French flag on the island. With the whole of Europe interested, Ferdinand II claimed the island, sending the corvette bombadier Etna under the command of Corrao, who took possession of the island, planted a flag, and named it Ferdinandea in honor of Ferdinand II. However, when everything seemed to be in the hands of the Bourbons, Captain Jenhouse arrived to defend the island from Corrao’s corvette. The matter was then left to their respective governments.
Disappearance of Ferdinandea: The situation was complicated because Ferdinandea was an Insula in mari, emerged from the sea, and the first person to set foot on it could claim it. Still, the island emerged in Bourbon waters, making the matter even more confusing. Almost to calm the possession frenzy of European kings and emperors, the island gradually disappeared, sinking in less than 2 months. On December 8, Captain Allotta of the brigantine Achille confirmed this. The waters of Graham were seen boiling again during the Belìce earthquake in 1968, and some British ships were spotted in the waters of the Sicilian Channel, probably still claiming the island. To avoid misunderstandings, the Sicilian region placed a plaque on the seabed with the inscription: “The island Ferdinandea was and will always be for the Sicilian people.”
Diving at Ferdinandea: Today, Ferdinandea is one of the most beautiful dives in the Mediterranean. Suitable for experienced divers due to constant currents, the bank offers enchanting underwater wonders. Diving on the submerged volcano is an opportunity not to be missed, with a pinnacle that offers remarkable biodiversity, from pelagic to benthic species. As soon as you enter the water, you can see the pinnacle’s cap with a vast plateau about 6/7 meters below the surface. Along the edges of the plateau, the walls drop steeply into the blue, where, among crevices and caves, multicolored sponges and large gorgonian fans can be seen. Large pelagic fish such as amberjacks and tuna are often spotted around the plateau, hunting.
With a bit of luck, you may come face to face with the king of the sea, the shark. Fox sharks and blue sharks are often found sharing the environment around the bank, but encountering them is quite rare, although several sightings have been reported. Descending along the wall between 25 and 30 meters, you can still photograph coral branches that have escaped the raids of sea predators. During the dive, your gaze is lost among continuous wonders: colorful nudibranchs, sea fans, cerianthus, moray eels, lobsters, and many other marine jewels that offer a enchanting spectacle.
